Reflecting on the trip to Korea with International Society of Improvised Music (ISIM)
By LaDonna Smith
I realize the amazing surreality of leaving Alabama to go forward in time by going West to go East, to realize a skip of clearly a day, ahead to another day and finding myself as darkness fell in Seoul, Korea where traffic rushes like a hive of ants, constant moving, weaving or stagnated, meticulously working one’s way from one place to the other, headlights lining ribbons in strings like beaded holiday lights, multilayered and strung by the thousand millions over moving wheels, carrying humans to places far, near, or nowhere. Stunning grid of multilayered bridges transporting streams of moving vehicles beyond into the black night. Hours later arriving in the black night on street corner anonymous, for who could read the signs, to walk in which direction, leading into the gleaming pitch resonance of a rainy night. A group of umbrellas moved in mass just across the four lane street with median.
Hailing a cab, driver with iphone for GPS, winding around in the night to find a hotel, nowhere, unheard of, hidden and obscure. Ofcourse, we could not have walked, even though we were told it was only 10 minutes away. Who knew the front entrance would not be a door?
Exploring into a parking deck laced & adorned with bizarre ropes hanging partially down over the opening, we stooped under to go inward, the building swallowed the two of us like a whale. Submerged into the dark interior and eventually finding a makeshift lobby, a small concrete hall, a mere counter, coffee pot & elevator to greet weary travelers, or more likely “couples.” Just glad to be somewhere for the night.
We ventured to the street to find food, and found a homely café, everyone sitting on the floor. Tables were communal, and very low. Out came a swine’s backbone floating in a hotpot covered in onions, a stew graced by yellow, pink and red pickles, and of course, the mandatory dose of Kimchee. A Love Hotel, we discovered, made its money by the hour. We were there two days. It was clear they were losing money, but we were safe. It was clean, and had an ample supply of love-making cream, digital wi-fi, computer, and hot tub in every room.
Next day, the street scene bustled. We were lucky finding hot buns & coffee on the way to the Platform, an art complex made of ex shipping boxcars, where we commenced the Tenth Annual ISIM (International Society of Improvised Music) Conference. Speakers from U.S.A., South Korea, and Australia presented on topics related to the practice of improvisation. One of my favorite presentations was Encountering Differences: Navigating Creativity in Multi-cultural Improvised Musical Performance, presented by Dr. Robert Vincs. Another enlightening piece of research was by Dr. Park Mikyung, presenting Traditional Improvisation of Ssikkim-gut Ritual and its current status in modern context, which spoke much about Korean Shamanism and practice. The absolute highlight however was for me, in the moment, having the opportunity to play violin with one of South Korea’s most esteemed traditional folk music trios with Lee Young-Sub, daegeum and taepyongso, Shin Hyun-Seok, haegeum & pansori, Yoon Seo-Kyung, ajeng & percussion. It was truly magical. That night we had a surreal Korean feast, hosted by the ISIM Festival and our Korean academics. Thanks to Jin Hi Kim and Dr. Park Mikyung, Emeritus Professor of Keimyung University for organizing this interesting and inspiring day.
Onward to the Jeonju Internatonal Sori Festival of South Korea. We arrived just in time for a radio interview, performed four workshops with Korean musicians, and a full improvised orchestra concert culminating the week. The festival itself was amazing! So very many folk artists, both music and dance, as well as performance art, from many countries around the world, all performing in native cultural dress, speaking many languages and one language, Music! One of the most interesting things to me was the Pansori performance about a tortoise and hare, and their escapades. Another was traditional Korean music and dance meets and mingles with Polish ballet and traditional music. What a surreal juxtaposition! Also once again the opportunity to improvise with Cha Seungmin, daegum, Kang Eunil, haegum, and Park Kyungso, gayageum, and perform at the final Tutti Concert Performance with our twelve or so ISIM members from USA, Switzerland, and Australia with Jin Hi Kim, komungo. We played music in the forest, we performed in the rain, we were on a proscenium stage, all the while eating weird food (for us) and enjoying the glorious cultural diversity which assembled for one of the most memorable musical experiences of my life.
By the way, it rained, drizzled, and poured every day! The mists surrounding the low mountains are real. People share experiences. Rain stops no one, not misty rain, not torrential rain, everyone turns out even in the most adverse weather conditions; huddling under tents, soaked or cloaked in thin plastic hoodies, the spirit of the music supercedes the dooming weather. Long live the Music!
From the utter annihilation of war, four enemy passes over the countryside, destroying everything in the path of the armies, both North Korean and U. S. the state of South Korea rebounds with remarkable resilience, modernity, cultural heritage, and most of all kindness, respect, and humanity. Long live the Living!